Addicted to Joy
On the surface this story would appear to be about surfing; this story is far deeper. Each of the individuals involved bring more than just the ability to shape or ride a surfboard. Only Larry Fuller could have brought such a diverse yet cohesive group of individuals together, united in a project that thoroughly captivated every Master Surfer, Shaper, Craftsman and Waterman presented.
One hundred historically significant surfboards are being built from traditional woods, including Ancient Redwood, Giant Sequoia, Koa, Agave, Balsa, and Western Red Cedar. Sculpted by legendary hands and hearts from rare and precious materials into the highest expression of the Shapers art, these surfboards will be treasured down through the ages.
Past and current Masters, Donald Takayama, Al Merrick, Billy Hamilton. Kelly Slater, Darrick Doerner, George Downing, Rusty Preisendorfer, Fran Velzey, Paul Straugh Jr, over 30 so far... have all enthusiastically participated. These interviews are the summations and celebrations of lives dedicated to knowing the world of surfing and the mystery of the ocean. This work has been the all-consuming passion of Larry Fuller...a way to give something back to the community who so warmly embraced him. This historically driven documentary will become a corner stone of the history of surfing and surfboard building.
80% of the interviews with the are complete with extensive focus on the origins of surfboard design and construction, including Native Hawaiian board design. The largest ride-able traditional Hawaiian surfboard in the world, carved by Pohaku Tom Stone is nearly complete. The only existing collection of traditional Hawaiian surfboards built by a Hawaiian, has just returned from a 6 month engagement at the MIngei International Museum in San Diego CA.